Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski presented her 11th ready-to-wear collection for Hermès amidst a grove of striped show-jumping poles. The multicolour set effectively referenced the 183-year-old saddle maker’s equestrian heritage while forming the Bauhaus colour theme that would later prevail the Autumn/Winter 2020 collection.
“I wanted to do primary colours and classicism,” said Vanhee-Cybulski backstage, referencing the inspiration she drew from her ‘80s childhood fashion idol Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, whose mix of bright colours opened the show on a series of crisp white leather coats and pleated skirts. A minimalist vein of sporty ease conveyed the ethos of “form follows function” so central to Hermès, whose fine craftsmanship and technique was seen in this season’s superfine knit polos, precision-tailored leather, and streamlined Olympic allure. “It’s a bit of the school of the Bauhaus — that process of stripping away the superficial to get to the function,” Vanhee-Cybulski explained. Functional, too, was the emphasis on the “outdoors,” which presented canvas parkas, draped coats, corduroy pantsuits and Scottish tartan — all of which made grand gestures of opulence with quiet, considered luxury.